We took a 20 minute flight from Tikehau to Rangiroa which is the largest atoll in the Tuamotu Islands of French Polynesia. This distinction is based both on the number of motus (islets) and circumference of the lagoon they surround. We stayed at the Hotel Kia Ora Hotel on Avatoru islet which has a boat dock. A collection of pleasure boats and charters that come and go through the day. The painting above features the Kia Ora dock and a delightful French couple and their son.
The deck outside our beachside bungalow had beautiful views views. In the view above, I am looking a bit to the left at the overwater bungalows.
Aside from the vacationers at Kia Ora, there were dozens of delightful white birds. I learned that they are fairy terns. I was drawn to the way the terns dart about seeming to dance in small groups overhead. I learned that fairy terns mate for life and raise one chick per year. Interestingly, these terns don’t make nests. Instead, each year’s egg is nestled into a crook in a tree and the hatchling is nurtured there.
On the north end of the island is the town of Avatoru. At that spot, Avatoru Pass forms natural channel between the interior lagoon and the pacific ocean. The current in the pass is extremely strong and dynamic. This sailboat found itself with an unexpected stay on the tiny private islet of Motu Fara which a 4 acre islet in the pass that I understand may be for sale. Avatoru pass is known for tricky sailing, great scuba diving and every color of blue one can imagine.
Every diving location in the world has a specific diving spot called The Aquarium. The painting above was done from a reference photo on a day we were able to enjoy the scenery both above and under water at The Aquarium. This spot at Tiputa Pass is at the southern end of the island. I was struck by the young boy who helped his dad by hooking up the boat to the site’s buoy. The image of this extrordinarily young and very competitent deckhand and questions I have about him and his life have stayed with me. I may explore this in a larger painting.
Tiputa pass is also known for a spontaneous show put on by wild dolphins in the area. As the current rushes through the pass between ocean and lagoon the dolphins quite literally surf in the waves. I was told this behavior is not a scheme for hunting, it is apparently all about play. I’m so delighted to have seen it.
I painted this at the end of our time on Rangiroa and it’s fitting to end with a sunset. This was painted from the deck outside of our bungalow looking toward the Kia Ora pier.
I’m hoping to get back to the little spots of heaven on earth that make up French Polynesia to soak in their fragile beauty, to enjoy the warm water of the South Pacific and to paint.